Stabilization of L-ascorbic acid in cosmetic emulsions

Sehui Kim; Tai Gyu Lee

Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, Vol.57, 193-198, January, 2018

DOI10.1016/j.jiec.2017.08.023 Export Citation

Stabilization of L-ascorbic acid in cosmetic emulsions

Sehui Kim, and Tai Gyu Lee^†

Department of Chemical and Biomolecular Engineering, Yonsei University, 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul 03722, Republic of Korea

E-mail:

The prevention of the oxidation of L-ascorbic acid in cosmetic emulsions was investigated. First, its stability was tested to determine the optimum ratio, and the effects of changes in the pH, color, and concentration of L-ascorbic acid in the emulsions were investigated. The kinetics of L-ascorbic acid in emulsions were studied through HPLC. The inclusion of glycerine in the dispersion was more effective in maintaining the initial L-ascorbic acid content than the inclusion of propylene glycol, butylene glycol or DI water. A zero-order reaction model best fitted the butylene glycol-in-oil emulsion, whereas a firstorder model best fitted the water-in-oil emulsion.

Keywords:Cosmetic emulsion;W/O;O/W;W/O/W;O/W/O

[References]

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[2] Hornig D, Ann. N. Y. Acad. Sci., 258, 103 (1975)

[3] Iozumi K, Hoganson GE, Pennella R, Everett MA, Fuller BB, J. Invest. Dermatol., 100, 806 (1993)

[4] Ros JR, Rodriguez-Lopez JN, Garcia-Canovas F, Biochem. J., 295, 309 (1993)

[5] Phillips CL, Tajima S, Pinnell SR, Arch. Biochem. Biophys., 295, 397 (295)

[6] Bendich A, Machlin L, Scandurra O, Burton G, Wayner D, Adv. Free Radic. Biol. Med., 2, 419 (1986)

[7] Fraga CG, Motchnik PA, Shigenaga MK, Helbock HJ, Jacob RA, Ames BN, Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci., 88, 11003 (1991)

[8] Traikovich SS, Arch. Otolaryngol. Head Neck Surg., 125, 1091 (1999)

[9] Cebelli DE, Bielski BHJ, J. Phys. Chem., 87, 1809 (1983)

[10] Yuan JP, Chen F, J. Agric. Food Chem., 46, 5078 (1998)

[11] Lee JS, Kim JW, Han SH, Chang IS, Kang HH, Lee OS, Oh SG, Suh KD, J. Cosmet. Sci., 55, 1 (2004)

[12] Washko PW, Welch RW, Dhariwal KR, Wang Y, Levine M, Anal. Biochem., 204, 1 (1992)

[13] Oh C, Li M, Kim EH, Park JS, Lee JC, Ham SW, Bull. Korean Chem. Soc., 31, 3513 (2010)

[14] Chambial S, Dwivedi S, Shukla KK, John PJ, Sharma P, Indian J. Clin. Biochem., 28, 314 (2013)

[15] Nakamura S, Oku T, Nutrition, 25, 686 (2009)

[16] Elmore A, Int. J. Toxicol., 24, 51 (2005)

[17] Maia Campos PM, Goncalves G, Gaspar LR, Skin Res. Technol., 14, 376 (2008)

[18] Park Y, Kim KS, Chung M, Sung JH, Kim B, J. Ind. Eng. Chem., 39, 121 (2016)

[19] Lee KW, Li J, Kim YW, Chung KW, Lee YJ, Oh HB, J. Ind. Eng. Chem., 17(3), 537 (2011)

[20] Park KA, Lee HJ, Hong IK, J. Ind. Eng. Chem., 16(3), 490 (2010)

[21] Bibette J, Calderon FL, Poulin P, Rep. Prog. Phys., 62, 969 (1999)

[22] Ferreira L, Doucet J, Seiller M, Grossiord J, Marty J, Wepierre J, Int. J. Pharm., 121, 169 (1995)

[23] Piemi MPY, de Luca M, Grossiord JL, Seiller M, Marty JP, Int. J. Pharm., 171, 207 (1998)

[24] Pervaiz S, Farrukh MA, Adnan R, Qureshi FA, J. Saudi Chem. Soc., 16, 63 (2012)

[25] Farahmand S, Tajerzadeh H, Farboud E, Pharm. Dev. Technol., 11, 255 (2006)

[26] Marx S, Cosmetics Europe.The Personal Care Association, Colipa, 2004.

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[29] Scherer R, Rybka ACP, Ballus CA, Meinhart AD, Filho JT, Godoy HT, Food Chem., 135, 150 (2012)

[30] Irache J, Ezpeleta I, Vega F, Chromatographia, 35, 232 (1993)

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[32] Corradini MG, Peleg M, Trends Food Sci. Technol., 17, 24 (2006)

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[37] Gekko K, J. Biochem., 90, 1633 (1981)