꾸지뽕나무 뿌리 열수추출물로부터 미백 및 주름개선 화장품 소재의 개발

신혜진; 정향리; 황단비; 김동욱; Hyejin Shin; Hyangli Jeong; Danbi Hwang; Donguk Kim

Korean Chemical Engineering Research, Vol.52, No.6, 701-705, December, 2014

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꾸지뽕나무 뿌리 열수추출물로부터 미백 및 주름개선 화장품 소재의 개발

Cudrania tricuspidata Root Extract as Whitening and Antiwrinkle Cosmetic Agent

신혜진, 정향리, 황단비, 김동욱^†

인제대학교 제약공학과, 621-749 경남 김해시 어방동 607번지

Hyejin Shin, Hyangli Jeong, Danbi Hwang, and Donguk Kim^†

Department of Pharmaceutical Engineering, Inje University, 607 Eobang-dong, Gimhae, Gyeongnam 621-749, Korea

E-mail:

초록

본 연구에서는 꾸지뽕나무의 뿌리, 줄기, 열매 및 잎으로부터 유효성분을 열수 추출하고 다양한 화장품 소재 시험을 실시하여 화장품 소재로서의 개발 가능성을 검토하였다. 세포독성시험에서 꾸지뽕나무의 뿌리, 줄기 그리고 열매 추출물은 독성을 나타내지 않았지만 잎 추출물은 200 μg/ml 이상의 농도에서 다소의 독성을 나타내었다. 꾸지뽕나무 뿌리추출물은 500 μg/ml의 농도에서 81%의 tyrosinase 억제효과(미백효과)와 58%의 elastase 억제효과(주름개선효과)를 나타내었고, UVB 자외선 흡수능도 다소 보여주었다. 21일간의 온도 안정성 시험 결과, 꾸지뽕 뿌리 추출물을 포함한 액제와 로션제형은 25 ℃에서는 안정하였으나 47 ℃에서 점도와 입자크기가 불안정하였다. 본 연구 결과 꾸지뽕 뿌리추출물은 높은 폴리페놀 및 플라보노이드의 함량, 우수한 미백 및 주름개선 효과를 나타내어 천연 기능성 화장품 소재로서 높은 가능성을 보여주었다.

Water extracts of root, leaf, branch and fruit of Cudrania tricuspidata were tested to use as natural antiwrinkle and whitening cosmetic ingredient. Root extract indicated 86.5 mg/g polyphenol concentration and 55.5 mg/g flavonoid concentration. From MTT test, root, branch and fruit extract did not show cell toxicity up to 1,000 μg/mL, however, leaf extract displayed significant cell toxicity in concentrations higher than 200 μg/mL. Cudrania tricuspidata root extracts displayed excellent 81% tyrosinase inhibition (whitening effect), 58% elastase inhibition (antiwrinkle effect) at 500 μg/mL and showed minor UVB absorbance. When solution and lotion formulation were made including Cudrania tricuspidata root extract, they are stable at 25 ℃ for 21 days, but showed significant deviation in viscosity and particle size at 47 ℃. From the study, Cudrania tricuspidata root extract demonstrated good potential for natural whitening and antiwrinkle cosmetic agent.

Keywords:Cudrania tricuspidat Root;Cosmetic Agent;Antiwrinkle;Whitening;UV Absorption

[References]

Tsai TC, Hantash BM, Clin. Med: Dermatol, 27, 1 (2008)
KDA Textbook Editiong Board, Dermatology, 5th Ed., Ryo Mook Gak, Seoul (2008)
Korea Minstry of Food and Drug Safety, http://www.mfds.go.kr/index.do (2014)
Elsner P, Mailbach HI, “Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics,” 2nd Ed., Taylor & Francis, New York (2005)
Nohynek GJ, Antignac E, Re T, Tortain H, Toxicol. Appl. Pharm., 243, 239 (2010)
ECOCERT, http://www.ecocert.com (2014)
Smit N, Vicanova J, Pavel S, Int. J. Mol. Sci., 10(12), 5326 (2009)
Park CM, Bae JY, Joung MS, Choi JW, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 37, 91 (2011)
Galarate M, Carlotti ME, Trotta M, Grande AE, Talarico C, J. Cosmet. Sci., 55, 139 (2004)
Kim S, Kim JK, Seo DB, Lee SJ, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 38, 237 (2012)
Erdemogu N, Sener B, Ide S, J. Mol. Struct., 559, 227 (2001)
Kim HJ, Kim T, Kang WY, Hyun B, Cheon HY, Kim BY, Kim D, Korean Chem. Eng. Res., 48(4), 413 (2010)
Korean Dongeuibogam, http://hidream.or.kr/dongeuibogam/donguibogam_main.html (2013)
Boo HO, Lee HH, Lee JW, Hwang SJ, Park SU, Korean J. Medicinal Crop Sci., 17, 15 (2009)
Mosmann T, J. Immun Method, 65, 55 (1983)
Seok JH, Lee SY, Chae EJ, Choi SW, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 36, 207 (2010)
Kim JY, Yang HJ, Lee KH, Jeon SM, Ahn YJ, Won BR, Park SN, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 33, 165 (2007)
Kim T, Kim HJ, Cho SK, Kang WY, Baek H, Jeon HY, Kim B, Kim D, Korean J. Chem. Eng., 28(2), 424 (2011)
Lee JY, Lee JN, Lee G, Lee K, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 38, 171 (2012)
Moon JY, Yim EY, Song G, Lee NH, Hyun CG, EurAsia J. BioSci., 4, 41 (2010)
Kim SS, Hyun CG, Lee J, Lim J, Kim JY, Park D, J. Appl. Biol. Chem., 50, 215 (2007)
Lee KK, Kim JH, Cho JJ, Choi JD, Inter. J. Cosmet. Sci., 21, 71 (1999)
Okunji C, Komarnytsky S, Fear G, Poulev A, Ribnicky DM, Awachie PI, Ito Y, Raskin I, J. Chromatogr. A, 1151, 45 (2007)
Jin MH, Jeong ET, Kim MS, Song HJ, Kwak TJ, Park SG, Lee SM, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 37, 327 (2011)

[Referenced By]

[1] Tsai TC, Hantash BM, Clin. Med: Dermatol, 27, 1 (2008)

[2] KDA Textbook Editiong Board, Dermatology, 5th Ed., Ryo Mook Gak, Seoul (2008)

[3] Korea Minstry of Food and Drug Safety, http://www.mfds.go.kr/index.do (2014)

[4] Elsner P, Mailbach HI, “Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics,” 2nd Ed., Taylor & Francis, New York (2005)

[5] Nohynek GJ, Antignac E, Re T, Tortain H, Toxicol. Appl. Pharm., 243, 239 (2010)

[6] ECOCERT, http://www.ecocert.com (2014)

[7] Smit N, Vicanova J, Pavel S, Int. J. Mol. Sci., 10(12), 5326 (2009)

[8] Park CM, Bae JY, Joung MS, Choi JW, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 37, 91 (2011)

[9] Galarate M, Carlotti ME, Trotta M, Grande AE, Talarico C, J. Cosmet. Sci., 55, 139 (2004)

[10] Kim S, Kim JK, Seo DB, Lee SJ, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 38, 237 (2012)

[11] Erdemogu N, Sener B, Ide S, J. Mol. Struct., 559, 227 (2001)

[12] Kim HJ, Kim T, Kang WY, Hyun B, Cheon HY, Kim BY, Kim D, Korean Chem. Eng. Res., 48(4), 413 (2010)

[13] Korean Dongeuibogam, http://hidream.or.kr/dongeuibogam/donguibogam_main.html (2013)

[14] Boo HO, Lee HH, Lee JW, Hwang SJ, Park SU, Korean J. Medicinal Crop Sci., 17, 15 (2009)

[15] Mosmann T, J. Immun Method, 65, 55 (1983)

[16] Seok JH, Lee SY, Chae EJ, Choi SW, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 36, 207 (2010)

[17] Kim JY, Yang HJ, Lee KH, Jeon SM, Ahn YJ, Won BR, Park SN, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 33, 165 (2007)

[18] Kim T, Kim HJ, Cho SK, Kang WY, Baek H, Jeon HY, Kim B, Kim D, Korean J. Chem. Eng., 28(2), 424 (2011)

[19] Lee JY, Lee JN, Lee G, Lee K, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 38, 171 (2012)

[20] Moon JY, Yim EY, Song G, Lee NH, Hyun CG, EurAsia J. BioSci., 4, 41 (2010)

[21] Kim SS, Hyun CG, Lee J, Lim J, Kim JY, Park D, J. Appl. Biol. Chem., 50, 215 (2007)

[22] Lee KK, Kim JH, Cho JJ, Choi JD, Inter. J. Cosmet. Sci., 21, 71 (1999)

[23] Okunji C, Komarnytsky S, Fear G, Poulev A, Ribnicky DM, Awachie PI, Ito Y, Raskin I, J. Chromatogr. A, 1151, 45 (2007)

[24] Jin MH, Jeong ET, Kim MS, Song HJ, Kwak TJ, Park SG, Lee SM, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 37, 327 (2011)